Subways

Expect no one to talk to you on a Hong Kong subway. Expect everyone to give up their seat to a mother or to the elderly. Always read over someone’s shoulder if you’re bored. It’s okay. Everyone does it.

Hong Kong’s subway system is full of quirks just like any other city. For example, it’s impeccably clean. Chinese cleanliness and smiley-face Wal-Mart prices come from the same source… cheap labor. But the passengers play their own part in keeping aluminum benches shiny and laminate flooring sparkling. I’ve never seen a subway rule broken: no eating, drinking, or spitting. (The no spitting signs are everywhere in an attempt to eradicate a bad habit of older Chinese generations.)

And then there is securing an empty seat in a crowded car. It took me four weeks of consistent riding before I figured out how to be Chinese in getting a seat. I can’t rush in too fast or I risk looking like a jerk. I can’t be passive or I’ll forever be standing. The main trick is to situate myself in an aisle where it looks like people might be getting off. Someone clutching their bag is a good sign that they are getting up soon. And when they get up, I pause for a moment, like I’m waiting for a pregnant lady to take the seat, then walk to the empty seat at a speed that isn’t too forced. I can’t look greedy.

If there are a few inches of space on a bench seat it’s okay to approach the seat with full intention of sitting down. Not wanting to be sat on is a common human sentiment. And making like you’re going to sit on someone is completely Chinese and not offensive at all. I’ve lacked the bravery to try it but the Chinese successfully execute the “I’m going to sit on you” move all the time.

Here’s a final pointer about subways in general. If you don’t like to touch strangers or be touched by them, don’t ride.